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LIFE

Travel the world with $15 wines

Rob Stein
For The Tennessean

The sweet spot for wine buying right now is in the $15-$25 range. Fortunately, we are experiencing an explosion of wine choices from around the world.

The quality of wines overall has never been better as winemakers share their knowledge and, at the same time, get increasingly involved with how their grapes are grown and cared for. The best vintners know that they have to supervise what is happening in the vineyard well before the grapes are harvested and brought to the winery.

The knowledge that lower yields lead to greater concentration of flavor and ultimately better wine has translated into the desire to go for quality over quantity. The better wineries now pay for their grapes by the acre and not by the volume. We are all the fortunate beneficiaries.

Mas de Chimeres Terrasses du Larzac 2011

However, the question still remains as to what we can realistically expect at the lower end of the sweet spot spectrum. What characteristics should we be able to expect in a $15 bottle of wine? Will it knock our socks off? Unlikely. Can it provide pleasure? It had better. Can we expect varietal expression — that a cabernet sauvignon tastes like a cab, a Grenache like a Grenache, a Rhone blend somewhat reminiscent of a Chateauneuf-du-Pape? The short answer is a resounding YES.

My recent experience has been that at the $15 level — with careful selection and direction from a wine merchant — one can expect to purchase not only a pleasant bottle of wine to enjoy during the week but also a wine that will succeed as a respectable gift to bring for dinner.

At the $15 level, varietal expression is a reasonable starting point. The wine shouldn't have to rely upon high sugar levels to cover any underlying faults. The tannins should be under control. After all, at $15, most folks aren't concerned with laying down a case for the future. The future is measured in days, not years. Therefore, we are not waiting for tannins to mellow out.

Lastly, it is not unreasonable to expect a certain amount of complexity. While the wine may not be one for the ages, certain layers of taste should be there. Moreover, there should be something on the finish that makes you want to enjoy another sip.

Evodia 2012 Grenache

Ultimately, the wine should match well with the food you are serving. For my wife and me, that is the underlying pleasure of wine — as a food enhancer/companion.

The wines highlighted today represent just some of the global opportunities for wine buyers: Colchagua in Chile, Mendoza in Argentina, northeastern Spain, Languedoc-Rousillion in southern France and Geyserville in California. These are some of the most important hot spots for value and quality.

Ask your wine merchant to help you travel the world to try these excellent values, and most importantly, enjoy!

Five to try

Fabre Montmayou Reserva Malbec 2012, Mendoza, Argentina (14.5 percent alcohol), $15. Soft and inviting.

Evodia 2012 Grenache, Atea, Spain (14 percent alcohol), $13. Eric Solomon importer; lots of exuberant fruit.

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 61 Non Vintage (zinfandel-based blend with Petite Sirah, Carignan, Cabernet), Geyserville, Calif. (13.5 percent alcohol), $15. Great with hamburgers.

Mas de Chimeres Terrasses du Larzac 2011 (85 percent Merlot, 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon). Languedoc-Rousillion, France (14 percent alcohol), $15. Wonderfully dry, some complexity.

MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008, Colchagua, Chile (14 percent alcohol), $15. Restrained but with good varietal definition. Great balance and finish.

about

Rob Stein, an orthopedic surgeon in Nashville, has been a wine enthusiast and collector for more than 40 years.

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 61 Non Vintage, photo shows lot 60